Bad Breath in Cats

Bad Breath in Cats
By: Dr. Debra Primovic

Halitosis, or bad breath, is an unpleasant odor coming from your cat's mouth. Usually halitosis had oral causes, although sometimes it can be caused by other disease processes.

There are several products on the market to help you deal with bad kitty breath including cat toothbrush and paste, cat treats that can help minimize tartar or freshen cat breath as welll as kitty breath drops.

It is first important to understand and treat any underlying diseases that may be causing the foul odor. These include:

Gingivitis (inflammation of the gums)
Abscessed tooth or teeth
Bone or hair stuck in mouth
Oral ulceration
Foreign bodies in the mouth (such as plant material or grass awns)
Oral neoplasia (tumors of the mouth)
Lung diseases, such as lung cancer
Severe kidney disease


What to Watch For


Oral discharge
Oral pain
Bloody oral discharge
Drooling
Dysphagia (difficulty swallowing)
Difficulty eating


Veterinary care should include diagnostic tests to determine the underlying cause of the bad breath and help guide subsequent treatment recommendations. Some tests may include:

A complete medical history and physical examination
A complete oral exam, which may require a brief anesthetic
Full-mouth radiographs (X-rays) with a dental machine
Periodontal probing (a blunt probe that is used to check the gum/tooth interface) to identify gum and periodontal diseases



Treatment
Optimal therapy of any serious or persistent medical condition depends on establishing the correct diagnosis. There are numerous potential causes of halitosis and before any treatment can be recommended, it is important to identify the underlying cause. Initial therapy should be aimed at the underlying cause. This treatment may include:

Removal of foreign object if present
Treatment of any oral tumors as needed
Periodontal therapy and root planing (cleaning/scraping the teeth under the gums)


Home Care
Home care recommendations will depend on the underlying cause of the problem. Some steps that you can take to help eliminate your cat's bad breath include:
Brushing your cat's teeth daily. Tooth brushes/finger brushes and special toothpastes are available from your veterinarian.
Spraying 0.12 percent chlorhexidine (prescribed by your veterinarian) into your cat's mouth once a day for seven to fourteen days.
Following dietary considerations recommended by your veterinarian. Special diets that may be beneficial include Hill's Prescription Diet T/D®.
Evaluation by your veterinarian if the bad breath persists.

How to Potty Train Birds

How to Potty Train Birds

By Dr. Greg Burkett
Board Certified Avian Veterinarian


Although bird poop has no odor, and is relatively harmless, few people are willing to venture into public with it on their shoulder for friends to notice and say "Hey, I'll bet you have a pet bird". True bird lovers understand that occasionally one will be pooped on by their loving pet and they accept it with grace and dignity. I am one of those people. Nonetheless, I believe that all pets should be well mannered, and pooping on people is not good manners. Therefore, I feel that potty training should be employed for a happier coexistence with your pet bird.
It is true that you can potty train your bird. Don't expect your bird to return to its cage when it has to eliminate but, it will be able hold it for reasonable about of time until you can get it to a place that it is allowed to drop.
The principle behind this training technique is that your bird needs to relieve itself every 15 to 20 minutes. The technique is simple. Each time you take your bird out of its cage, immediately place the bird onto its playpen. As you are waiting for the bird to drop, repeat a key word that you will use to trigger the event. I use "Dump". One of our customers says "Do your Poopie". Missy uses "Go Poo Poo". Any word you choose will work. The key words are important because they will be a cue to let your bird know what you expect. If your bird does not go within 2 to 3 minutes, take the bird off of the playpen for a couple of minutes. Then place the bird back onto the playpen until it goes. Repeat the process until the bird poops. Your bird is not allowed off of the perch for any extended period of time until it has dropped. The bird's reward is getting off of the perch to be with you. Lots of verbal and physical praise is important when they go where they are supposed to go. While the bird is out of its cage, it is important to return it to the playpen every 15 to 20 minutes, make it stay there, and repeat the key word until the bird drops. When your bird poops, its reward is coming off of the playpen to be with you and to receive more praise and petting. Once your bird begins to recognize the key word, you can say it before you remove your bird from the cage and he will learn to poop before he comes out.

Utilizing this technique, being patient, being persistent, and keeping on schedule will potty train your bird in 2 to 3 weeks. Potty trained does not mean that your bird will return to the cage or playpen to poop. Potty trained means that the bird will hold its poops for a reasonable period of time (30 to 45 minutes depending on the size of the bird) until it is put in a proper place to relieve itself (on a playpen or in its cage). Potty trained also means that your bird should poop on command by using the key words mentioned earlier. This is very handy when you take your bird to friends' or families' homes. You should be able to hold your bird over a sink, trash can, or other appropriate receptacle and tell the bird to poop, thereby leaving the friends, family and carpet free of unwanted poop stains. This technique works!

How to Potty Train Birds
By Dr. Greg Burkett

Grooming Your Bird

Grooming Your Bird


by Dr. Greg Burkett Diplomate

American Board of Veterinary Practitioners

in Avian Medicine
Grooming your bird includes trimming its wings and nails, filing its beak, preening your bird and bathing your bird. Grooming your bird gives you a chance to spend quality time with your bird and helps you to form a stronger bond with your pet.

Clipping your bird's wings serves several purposes. The taming process is much easier and faster with their wings clipped and you have better control over your bird while taming it. Wing trimming will also prevent your bird from flying into objects such as windows or mirrors and injuring itself.

Although wing clipping is necessary for all pet birds, it does remove one of the exercise modalities that birds depend on. Therefore, it is important for you as a responsible bird owner to offer your bird an alternative exercise method. We recommend a cage large enough for your bird to climb around in, with several different toys to encourage play. We also feel it is important that you have your bird out of its cage as often as possible. A good place for the bird to play when it is out of its cage is on a playpen. There are several different varieties on the market now. Some companies will even custom build them to your specifications. Avian Treasures custom builds great playpens and offers several types for birds of all sizes. A playpen provides your bird with a place of his own where he can exercise and play without being confined to his cage. Birds with clipped wings will almost always stay on their playpens, especially if the playpen offers a lot to keep them occupied.

Several different methods of wing clipping are in print and everyone has their own opinion on the correct method. The method we have found that works the best is to clip the outer primaries of BOTH wings, below the level of the primary coverts. The number to remove on each side varies with species as well as individually. The primaries must be cut because they are the feathers that give lift when the bird flaps its wings. The secondary flight feathers should be left intact to give some air resistance in case the bird falls. It is important to trim both wings so the bird is able to maintain its balance. We do not recommend plucking the feathers because they will grow back out in six weeks and it is a very uncomfortable experience for the bird. It is important to remember that clipped feathers will molt out and new ones will replace them within a few months. When the new feathers grow in they contain a pulp consisting of blood vessels and nerves. You should not clip the blood feathers because they will bleed profusely and cause the bird a lot of pain, stress, and blood loss. It is best to wait until the feathers are fully mature before clipping the wings again.

Some birds are very strong fliers and may still be able to fly even after being clipped. So, do not risk taking the bird outside, trusting the wing clip, only to have something suddenly scare your bird, and cause it to fly off into the wild blue yonder. You will be left standing there with your mouth open, thinking --"But, ....But,...s/he was clipped!" I have seen it happen, with no matter as to the tameness of the bird. Just as a side thought, please do not put those nasty leg chains on your bird. They will invariably lead to a broken leg.

Trimming your birds' nails also serves several purposes. When their nails become too long perching is uncomfortable and it may lead to more serious foot problems. Long sharp nails are also uncomfortable to you when your bird perches on your bare skin. Long nails may also become snagged in toys, clothing or on a cage and can result in serious leg or foot injuries.
When trimming your bird's nails it is important to remember that each nail has a blood and a nerve supply called the quick. Remember that the quick grows with the nail and an overgrown nail will have a longer quick. If you trim the nail too far back and cut the quick, it will bleed and will be painful to the bird. Any amount of blood loss, however small, is significant and should be stopped immediately with pressure and a styptic compound.

The beak also has a quick like the nails and the same precautions should be considered when correcting the beak length. If your bird has plenty of toys to chew on, a Polly Perfect or lava rock perch to rub its beak on, and its beak is growing normally, it should not be necessary to trim the beak. It may be necessary, however, to file the tip with an emery board or nail file to dull the point or shorten its length slightly. If the beak is growing too fast or growing abnormally, you should see your avian veterinarian to determine the cause and cure.
Wing, nail and beak trimming are simple procedures. If you are inexperienced with how to perform them, then have your avian veterinarian show you the proper instruments needed and the correct method of trimming. Once you have done it a few times it becomes easier. I recommend, however, that owners let others do the grooming so their bird does not become distrustful to the owner.

Bird Health Care Tips

 

Avian Health Care Recommendations
by Dr. Greg Burkett

Board Certified Avian Veterinarian

1. Have a complete work up performed on your bird every year. This annual exam should include a physical exam, complete blood count (CBC), microbiological culture or gram stain of the cloaca, and vaccinations.

2. Some species of birds need additional testing: a. All cockatoos and lovebirds should be tested once for Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease (PBFD); all birds thought to have been exposed to PBFD should also be tested. b. All amazons, budgies, rose-breasted cockatoos, and macaws need to have cholesterol levels checked annually. Cholesterol should be monitored in all birds on a high fat diet (like seeds). c. All South American species need to have an examination performed every six months to look for signs of papillomatosis. d. All birds should have a full chemistry panel and survey radiographs on file before the age of 5 years. Having normal values on file will allow for easier health monitoring as your bird ages and early detection of disease and other problems.

3. All birds, whether individual pet or breeder, need to be vaccinated annually against Avian Polyomavirus.

4. Learn to recognize a sick bird. Birds are very adept at hiding their signs of illness. Most commonly the first signs go unnoticed. Usually the first signs include changes in behavior, e.g. decreased activity level or decreased vocalization. If you recognize that your bird is sick, it is an emergency situation. Immediately put a heating pad on your bird's cage and call your avian veterinarian. Other signs of illness include: a. Decreased appetite - Remember that birds will pretend that they are eating, so don't be fooled. b. Diarrhea or persistent abnormal droppings c. Too much fluid in the droppings (polyuria) d. Fluffed e. Sitting on the cage bottom f. Coughing, sneezing, abnormal breathing sounds g. Tail bobbing h. Weight loss i. Regurgitating, vomiting j. Change in water intake k. Weakness, Ataxia l. Abnormal behaviors or vocalizations

5. Do not use Over-the-Counter (OTC) medications in your bird's water as treatment for illness. These medications are ineffective against avian pathogens and will only mask disease symptoms. Birds can become worse with OTC medications and veterinarians have a more difficult time diagnosing the disease properly.

How to Keep Your Cat Lean and Healthy

Obesity is one of the leading health problems cats face. If your cat is more than 20 percent over his ideal body weight, he is at risk for heart and liver disease, diabetes, arthritis, and an increased surgical/anesthesia risk. Adult cats typically weigh between 9 and 11 pounds, have very little "padding" over their ribs, and a pronounced waist (not a droopy stomach).


Obesity results when your cat takes in more calories than he burns. To help prevent obesity and the health problems associated with it:
•Schedule a veterinarian visit to rule out any health problems that may be contributing to obesity.

•Feed your cat only once a day - preferably in the evening - and leave the dish out for 30 minutes only. You can also reduce the amount of food by one quarter.

•Try a reduced-calorie, extremely healthy food which allows you to feed larger, more satisfying portions. We also recommend a fatty acid supplement like Vitacoat® to boost skin and coat health and help control shedding, no matter what diet you feed.

•Exercise your cat - play is one of the best methods. Get him moving with a toy like Mouse,  Laser  or any Chase Toy.

Obesity is a very preventable problem. Keep your cat thin and he'll reward you with years of health, happiness, and joy.

Cat obesity and cat weight control

Why is my pet overweight?
Although most weight gain in pets, like humans, is simply due to feeding too much or exercising too little, there may be treatable medical conditions contributing to obesity. Disease, genetics, medications, and other nondietary factors can all influence your cat's weight. If your pet has an unexplained increase in appetite or weight, have her examined by your veterinarian to rule out possible medical conditions.
Also, always have your pet checked by your veterinarian before starting any weight loss program.


Why did my pet gain weight when I fed according to the manufacturer's recommendations?
The label recommendations provide guidelines based on caloric needs of what the manufacturer considers to be an "average" dog or cat with "average" activity. Often, many pets will gain excess weight if fed what pet food manufacturers suggest.
It is a good idea to start at the low end of the suggested amount, monitor your pet's weight for several weeks, then adjust the amount fed accordingly.

Also consider what else your pet may eat. If your pet typically gets table scraps, treats, and a "little something to make the food taste better," these are other reasons your pet is gaining excess weight. The calories in "little extras" add up very quickly.


Do I have to use a reducing diet if my pet is supposed to lose weight?
Your veterinarian will be able to give you the best advice on what diet you should feed your pet. Some pets, such as those who do not have to lose a large amount of weight, will do fine on a lesser amount of their normal food. Pets who are on a special diet because of another condition (e.g., bladder stones) should remain on that diet and simply be fed less of it. A balanced commercial weight reduction diet, however, does offer several advantages.
First, weight reduction diets generally have less fat and more fiber, resulting in a food that is less energy dense. This allows for a greater loss of body fat than simply feeding smaller amounts of a high-fat diet. This is because fat contains over twice as many calories as protein and carbohydrates, and the less energy dense foods tend to produce satiety (a feeling of being full) at a lower level of calorie intake. In addition, more energy is used in digesting and absorbing lower-fat, higher-fiber diets. Finally, weight reduction diets contain the proper amount of vitamins and minerals per serving size. By feeding less of your pet's regular food, you are also decreasing the level of protein, vitamins, minerals, and other nutrients your pet receives. These differences could be eliminated by using supplements, but using a food more specifically balanced for weight loss requires less guess work.


How fast should my pet lose weight?
It is especially important that obese cats do not lose weight too rapidly, so a goal of 1% of body weight per week may be better. If changing diets as part of a weight loss program, it is important to change diets gradually over the course of 1-2 weeks. Cats, especially, should not be allowed to quit eating while on a weight loss program.


When is my pet most likely to develop a weight problem?
Most weight problems develop slowly and often begin when a pet transitions from a growing kitten to an adult. Neutered and spayed pets have less energy needs, and this should be taken into account after the surgery by decreasing the amount fed.An adult pet's appetite is often greater than his need. Pets can also experience weight gain during the senior years when activity level decreases. For some pets, activity also decreases during the winter months. Be ready to adjust your pet's calories and perform periodic weight checks to avoid overfeeding during these problematic transition times.

Why aren't there fat-free pet foods?
Consuming excessive amounts of fat has been shown to cause health problems in both animals and humans. However, fat is an essential nutrient required for good health. Even pets on a calorie-restricted diet need some fat. Without fat in the diet, your pet would soon become deficient in certain vitamins, essential fatty acids, and other nutrients.

How do I tell if my cat is overweight?
A 9-point body condition scoring system has been developed for cats. Consider the following five indicators on your cat and compare them to the body condition scores below.
First, feel for your cat's ribs. You should be able to feel the ribs quite easily. There should be a slight amount of fat over them, but each rib should be distinct. If you can see the ribs, your cat is too thin. If you cannot feel them at all, your cat is very overweight.

Second, check the area near the base of your cat's tail. There should be a small amount of fat covering this area and it should feel smooth overall. If the bones protrude, your cat is too thin; if you cannot feel any bones at all, your cat is very overweight.

Third, feel other bony prominences on the cat's body such as the spine, shoulders, and hips. Again, you should be able to feel a small amount of fat over these areas. If these bones are easily felt or visible, your cat is too thin. If you cannot feel the bones beneath the layer of fat, your cat is obviously overweight.

Fourth, look at your cat from above. Your cat should have a definite waist behind the ribs. If the waist is extreme or if bony prominences are visible, your cat is too thin. If there is no waist, or worse yet, the area between the ribs and hips is wider than the hips or ribs, your cat is grossly overweight.

Fifth, look at your cat from the side. Cats should have an abdominal tuck (the area behind the ribs should be smaller in diameter than the chest). A cat who is too thin will have a very severe abdominal tuck. Overweight cats will have no abdominal tuck. Some cats with ideal body scores may still have pendulous (udder-like) skin on their lower abdomens. This area is also a common site for fat deposition. If you're unsure about your cat, ask your veterinarian.

How to stop your cat from spraying

Cat owners sometimes confuse urine spraying with urinating, even though the behaviors are quite different. Urine spraying is a normal, innate territory-marking behavior that has nothing to do with your cat's sanitation. Though both male and female cats will spray, the behavior is most common in non-neutered males, and in multi-cat households. The spraying of urine on drapes, furniture, and other surfaces is your cat's way of identifying territory or covering the scent of other cats. While this behavior is normal, it can and should be prevented to keep your home odor free.

Do not confuse urine spraying with eliminating outside of the litter box. If your cat urinates outside of her litter box, leaving a puddle or a large carpet stain, you should call your veterinarian immediately. She may have a urinary tract infection, cystitis that needs to be treated as soon as possible. Or, as mentioned above, she may be marking territory by spraying.

Here are a few suggestions for controlling spraying:


Have your cat spayed/neutered by the time she is six months old. In addition to the many other good reasons to have your cat neutered, more than 90% of cats will not start spraying if they are fixed before the behavior begins.

Restrict her view of the outdoors. If your cat sees another cat, her natural response will be to mark her territory... your home. Move furniture away from windows, pull the drapes, or cover the lower portion of your window. You might also provide a well-located, cat tree or play area to refocus attention.

If you have more than one cat, foster a positive relationship among them. Cats that get along are less competitive, and are therefore far less likely to spray. Play with your cats together, and give each one equal attention. Have them eat and sleep together. Encourage them to groom each other by wiping them down with a damp cloth.

Reduce stress in your cat by keeping things routine. Changes of any kind in your household can create anxiety, for example, new cats in the area, new people, or re-decorating. Feed your cat at the same time each day, and keep her litter box and bed in their respective places. When people visit, put your cat in a separate room, particularly if your visitors have cats of their own and may carry in their scent. Feliway Spray, or Comfort Zone Plug-in with Feliway, contains a pheromone-like substance designed to help calm cats, can be used for cats under stress, or when you think planned events might foster anxiety.
If your cat does spray, thoroughly clean the area to prevent re-marking. It's recommended Cat-Tergent or Stainaway that uses natural enzymes to devour odor-causing bacteria instead of covering up its scent.


SSSCAT Spray and No-Scratch! Spray repel your cat with unpleasant essences, so your cat will avoid treated surfaces or your houseplants. They can be used to keep your pet away from selected areas, furniture, and drapes, which may help disrupt the undesirable pattern of behavior.
Spraying is definitely a problem you don't have to live with. Whenever you spot spraying or recognize its signs, the sooner you take action the better.

How to Curb Excessive Barking

Dogs bark for many reasons. It is a natural behavior and primary method of communication. They bark to warn others or defend a territory, to seek attention or play, to identify themselves to another dog, or as a response to boredom, excitement, being startled, loneliness, anxiety, or teasing. Four proven methods to help you stop unwanted barking behaviors include:

1. First, avoid the temptation to reinforce your dog's bark. Do not give verbal reassurance, a treat, or physical attention to a barking dog.
   
2. Minimize your dog's barking with proper and consistent training. In addition, try using a calming pheromone spray in your pet's environment.
   
3. Train your pet to respond to a one-word command, such as "Enough." During training, divert his attention from the barking and sternly say "Enough." If he stops barking, reward him with a great treat. Only give the treat if your dog stops barking.
   
4. Along with these other behavior modification techniques, you may try a bark collar, a training tool designed specifically to address habitual chronic barking. It gives your pet a warning tingle or mild static correction when he barks, which quickly trains your pet to avoid the behavior that initiates the correction.

Bark control is important in developing a dog that is obedient and able to relax. Your success in this area will create a more harmonious home.

Dog Biting: Causes, Prevention, and Control

The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), a federal agency which monitors and controls human diseases, estimates over 4.7 million people are bitten per year. This is approximately 2 percent of the U.S. population. Ten to twenty people die each year from injuries resulting from dog bites. Most of these victims are children.

In addition to physical injuries, people, especially children, can be emotionally scarred as well. It is sad, indeed, when a person who has suffered a dog bite can no longer feel comfortable around animals, and may in fact, be terrified of them. Such people lose a wonderful aspect of their lives and a chance to have a meaningful human-animal bond.
Reduce the risk of your dog biting
There is no way to guarantee that your dog will never bite someone. But you can significantly reduce the risk if you:

• Spay or neuter your dog. This will reduce your dog's desire to roam and fight with other dogs. Spayed or neutered dogs are three times less likely to bite than intact dogs.
• Socialize your dog. Introduce your dog to many different types of people and situations so that he or she is not nervous or frightened under normal social circumstances.
• Train your dog. Participating in puppy socialization and dog training classes is an excellent way to help you and your dog learn good obedience skills. Training your dog is a family matter, and every member of your household should be involved and use the same training techniques.
• Teach your dog appropriate behavior. Avoid playing aggressive games with your dog such as wrestling, tug-of-war, or 'siccing' your dog on another person. Do not allow your puppy to bite or chew on your hands. Set appropriate limits for your dog's behavior. Do not wait for an unacceptable behavior to become a bad habit, or believe your dog will 'grow out of it.' If your dog exhibits dangerous behavior toward any person, particularly toward children, seek professional help from your veterinarian, an animal behaviorist, or a qualified dog trainer. Your community animal care and control agency or humane society may also offer helpful services. Dangerous behavior toward other animals may eventually lead to dangerous behavior toward people, and is also a reason to seek professional help.
• Be a responsible dog owner. Obtain a license for your dog as required by law, and provide regular veterinary care, including rabies vaccinations. For everyone's safety, do not allow your dog to roam. Make your dog a member of your family. Dogs who spend a great deal of time alone in the backyard or tied out on a chain are more likely to become dangerous. Dogs who are well-socialized and supervised rarely bite.
• Err on the safe side. If you do not know how your dog will react to a new situation, be cautious. If your dog may panic in crowds, leave him at home. If your dog overreacts to visitors or delivery or service personnel, keep him in another room. Work with professionals to help your dog become accustomed to these and other situations. Until you are confident of his behavior, however, avoid stressful settings.

If your dog would bite a person:

• Confine your dog immediately.
• Check on the victim's condition. If necessary, seek medical help.
• Provide the victim with important information. This should include your name and address, name of the dog, the date of your dog's last rabies vaccination, and the name and phone number of your veterinarian.
• Cooperate with the animal control official responsible for acquiring information about your dog. If your dog must be quarantined for any length of time, ask whether he may be confined within your home or at your veterinarian's hospital (this is usually determined by the dog's rabies vaccination status). Strictly follow quarantine requirements for your dog.
• Seek professional help to prevent your dog from biting again. Consult with your veterinarian, who may refer you to an animal behaviorist or a dog trainer.
• Do not just give your dog to someone else if your dog's dangerous behavior cannot be controlled. Because you know your dog is dangerous, you may be held liable for any damage he does even when he is given to someone else. Do not give your dog to someone who wants a dangerous dog. If you must give up your dog due to dangerous behavior, consult with your veterinarian and with your local animal care and control agency or humane society about your options. New owners may be possible if they have a good knowledge of dog behavior and training, and are fully aware of the dog's behavior problems.

To avoid being bitten:

• Be cautious around strange dogs. To avoid being bitten, never approach an unfamiliar dog, especially one who is tied or confined behind a fence or in a car. Do not pet an unfamiliar dog without the owner's permission, and make sure to let the dog see and sniff you first. Always assume that a dog who does not know you may see you as an intruder or as a threat.
• Never turn your back to a dog and run away. A dog's natural instinct will be to chase and catch you. Instead, remain motionless, with your hands at your sides. Avoid direct eye contact. When the dog loses interest, slowly back away.
• Do not disturb a dog while she's sleeping, eating, chewing on a toy, or caring for puppies. Be sure the dog is aware of your presence before you touch the dog - even your own. A startled dog may bite as a reflex action.
• Teach children not to tease or chase dogs.
• Never leave an infant or child alone with a dog.

If you are attacked:

• Put something between you and the dog. Use your coat, purse, book bag, bicycle, or other object to separate yourself from the dog.
• Protect your head. If you are knocked down, cover your head and ears with your hands and curl into a ball. Try not to move or scream.
• Care for any wounds. Wash any wound with soap and water and seek medical attention.
• Report the attack to the police or animal control agency. Try to remember as much as possible about the attack.

The happiness and safety of you, your pet, and the people around you is important to us. By responsibly taking care of your dog and educating other dog owners, you can help prevent dog bites. You can help by supporting dog bite prevention educational programs in schools, and teaching children and adults the proper way to approach unfamiliar pets and avoid being bitten.

How to Remove a Tick on Pets

Removing a tick from your cat or dog is easy if you just follow these simple steps. To remove an attached tick, use a pair of fine-tipped tweezers or special tick removal instruments. These special devices allow one to remove the tick without squeezing the tick body. This is important as you do not want to crush the tick and force harmful bacteria to leave the tick and enter your pet's bloodstream. Grab the tick by the head or mouth parts right where they enter the skin. Do not grasp the tick by the body. Without jerking, pull firmly and steadily directly outward. Do not twist the tick as you are pulling. Using methods such as applying petroleum jelly, a hot match, or alcohol will NOT cause the tick to 'back out.' In fact, these irritants may cause the tick to deposit more disease-carrying saliva in the wound. After removing the tick, place it in a jar of alcohol to kill it. Ticks are NOT killed by flushing them down the toilet. Clean the bite wound with a disinfectant. If you want to, apply a small amount of a antibiotic ointment. Wash your hands thoroughly. Please do not use your fingers to remove or dispose of the tick. We do not want you in contact with a potentially disease-carrying tick. Do NOT squash the tick with your fingers. The contents of the tick can transmit disease. Once an embedded tick is manually removed, it is not uncommon for a welt and skin reaction to occur. A little hydrocortisone spray will help alleviate the irritation, but it may take a week or more for healing to take place. In some cases, the tick bite may permanently scar leaving a hairless area. This skin irritation is due to a reaction to tick saliva. Do not be worried about the tick head staying in; it rarely happens.

How and Why to Switch Your Bird to a Pelleted Diet

How and Why to Switch Your Bird to a Pelleted Diet
by Dr Greg Burkett Board Certified Avian Veterinarian

Why?

Because diet is the most important factor in a bird's life. A poor diet can be the underlying cause of many health problems.
To improve health & appearance by providing vitamins and minerals, which are deficient in seeds, in the proper amounts and ratios.
To provide consistent quality by using high quality ingredients.
To reduce waste and mess by providing a product that is 100% edible product. Pellets eliminate the 50-70% of inedible hulls that make up seed mixes.
To eliminate the guesswork in feeding because pellets are formulated specifically for pet birds.
And formulated diets such as Harrison's Bird Foods are developed through decades of research in pet bird nutrition and thousands of field trials.


How?

Pellets are the only diet that can offer complete and balanced nutrition. Your bird's diet should be at least 80% pellets. The remaining 20% can be any treat. Fruits, vegetables, pasta, rice, beans, seed, and many other foods are acceptable treats. Persistence is the key to a better diet for your bird. You must first believe that you are doing the best for your bird. If you will follow this method your bird will be eating pellets in two to four weeks.

1. You need to have two food bowls in the cage. One bowl should be near the highest perch. The other bowl should be lower, near the cage bottom. In the high cup put Harrison's. The Harrison's bowl is to stay in the cage as the high bowl at all times. In the lower bowl put seeds or your bird's usual diet.


2. When giving seeds in the lower dish, give only enough seed that can be eaten in one sitting. I recommend giving only 1 tablespoon of seeds. Fill the Harrison's bowl half way.

3. Seeds are to be given in the morning and in the evening. Afternoon, the seed bowl is removed, and a different treat is offered. This treat can be any of the above mentioned foods. If your bird does not eat other foods, another dish of seed should be given. The process will take longer if this is the case. Do Not Mix Pellets With Seeds.

4. A routine should now be established: Small amount of seeds in the morning and evening, a treat in the afternoon, and Harrison's available at all times. Maintain this routine for 1 week. Meanwhile, observe your bird to see if he is consuming the pellets.

5. When you notice that he is eating pellets, then discontinue the seeds in the morning. Instead, give Harrison's in the lower bowl (and in the higher bowl), give the treat in the afternoon and give the evening seed meal, but give fewer seeds at this time.

6. Continue to observe your bird and weigh him if possible. If you determine that your bird is consuming pellets consistently and maintaining his weight, then we recommend that you discontinue the seeds completely and continue monitoring.

7. Utilize the following coaxing hints to assist you in this conversion.

Some Helpful Hints to Coax Conversion:

A) It helps to role play with your bird when you are trying to get him to try new things. You can pretend to be eating the new food and that you are very excited. Then offer some of it to your housemate in front of your bird. When you see your bird is interested, then offer him some.

B) Birds prefer to eat in flocks. At meal times bring your bird out of the cage to dine with you. Have a bowl of Harrison's at the table to offer your bird and to pretend to eat and pass around to the other flock members. Your bird can also be given some of your table food at this time.

At this point your bird can be considered to be on Harrison's. You should wait for at least a several days before giving seed as a treat until you know there is full conversion without fear of de-conversion back to seed.

Some Important Points to Consider:

A) It is very important to monitor your bird's droppings during and after the conversion process. If the droppings turn to a dark green or black, then it is an indication that he is not eating enough. At this point give a little more seed or the bird's usual diet, and simply prolong the converting process.

B) The droppings will change during the conversion. This should not be alarming. The droppings may become loose or watery and may change color. These changes are temporary, but, if they persist, then call your avian veterinarian.

By converting your bird to a pelleted diet, you will be adding several years to his life span and enhancing that life by preventing many nutritionally related health problems. Your bird will look and act healthier. The feathers will be brilliantly colored with fewer stress marks. In short, putting your bird on pellets will be the best thing you can ever do for you bird.

 Best selling brands: Zupreem, Harrison's pellets (organic), Roudybush